Sunday, August 31, 2008

Nanjing -


I’m going on my 3rd day in China, but really I’ve only had one full day as I arrived late on Sat. night and am just starting today’s adventures. See photos (below) for some of my first observations of the amazing city of Nanjing. For those who don’t know where I am (as I am sometimes confused as well), Nanjing is a city about a 2 hour fast train ride west of Shanghai. Shanghai being the middle city down the East coast of China. The city is right on the Yangtze river, a river about the size of the Mississippi. This city has typically been a major port for trade and commerce as cargo boats run up and down the river stopping here to trade. Because of it’s location it has also been home to several dynasty’s Emperors. Back in the day when the “other” government was in charge, the Kuomintang (that is now in Taiwan), (late 1800s-early 1900s) it was the capital city of China (the capital city was later moved to Beijing when the Communists took over – 1949). It has a long history and we are here to explore and learn about it.

Yesterday was Sunday so I had the day to myself, as no one works on Sunday and was available to help me find an apartment. I spent all morning trying to get my computer to like the internet connection at the hostel I am staying at. By noon I had had a nap already and had done a fair share of cursing Chinese technology before I had even left my room! It wasn’t the best way to start off in China. I finally had to revert to borrowing a wireless connection at the coffee shop across the way ~ the only problem with that is that I am obligated to order something from them since I sat there for two hours. but I was hungry so it was OK. After eating, talking to Mom and Dad, a friend or two and sending a some emails I felt better – Hello! My name is Julie, Chinese name Zhuo Liyu, I’m an internet –acholic.

For the afternoon I went a walkin’. I ended up with two maps (one Chinese and one mostly English) and was trying use my camera when I could. Mostly people didn’t know that I was documenting their street life for all of America to see, but the owner of a fruit stand caught me gearing up to shoot and she yelled out to me that it was NOT OK. I tried to reason with her that I was only taking photos to show my family, but she gave me the what for and sent me on my way. I suppose she doesn’t know that I truly am not an American spy working for the government.

It has been 14 years since I was here as a student. The Nanjing University campus is just as beautiful as I remember. I am looking forward to working there for the next several months. Buying a bike is critical since that way I can get around town much easier. One guy that runs a little bike fix it place (outdoors on the street) said he would sell me a used one for 100 yuan (about $15). I’m going to shop around and see if I can find a “better deal”…… things are sooooo cheap in China!!

Last night I went out with the students and some others who have arrived. We went for dinner in the neighborhood at a fairly decent place. 3 guys, a girl, her mom and a friend of theirs. We had a feast! It was yummy tofu, mutton, a huge bowl of pork soup (with the large bones in it) and lots of rice. Not even the guys could finish it all ~ paid about $29 for all of us to eat. I pay that for 1 meal for myself in the States! If you want to feel rich move to China.

So far I am working on getting ‘oriented.’ I hope today to locate an apartment and move out of suitcases for a time. My students are so excited to be here, as am I. What a great opportunity. I love it! Even though I get stared at all the time and some folks are freaked out if I even speak Mandarin to them, as they think I expect them to speak English, it’s great to be back.

(PS – I’m putting this up from a public computer in the lobby of the hostel and as I post this a guy is watching right over my shoulder. I asked him a couple times how he was doing and if he wanted to use the machine, NO – just wants to watch over my shoulder – not a lot of personal space in China.)

ATM instructions


*What 'besides' bank note does one put in an ATM machine?
*Who is swallowing the cards at the ATM these days?
*I'm really curious about the stories of 'exceptional situations'
*NEVER let anyone peep your PIN!!!

recycle truck


happy guys eat chinese


Ping Pong in the Park


Nanjing daily life










Saturday, August 30, 2008

PRC arrived!!

I arrived in Nanjing today without much of a hitch. The plane from HK to Nanjing was 30 minutes late (which was much better than the 3 hours I had expected. )

Then there was that smoking section in the back of the plane I had forgotten about. Fortunately, I was near the front. Exactly how does one cabin of a plane divide into smoking and non-smoking??

There was a minor stop to search my backpack at customs, this made me a little nervous as I had a Chinese triple scriptures stuffed deep inside. Once I started talking Chinese to the officer he barely glanced at what was in my backpack and went on about how surprised as to how good my Chinese was. (not uncommon, even if one says one word in Chinese they are surprised.) More than once my Chinese has got me better seats and through some sticky moments this trip.

As far as I could tell through the heavy fog and rain Nanjing has change remarkably since I was last here in '94. THEY HAVE AN IKEA!! I can't believe it. Just might have to visit it when I need a piece of the West.

It's late though and I've had a long day. More to tell tomorrow. It's exciting to be back in the PRC. Lv to all who are reading!!

fun engrish

taiwan food! ~ yum

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Friday, August 29, 2008

Day 7 - last day

Well, it's official - Erin and I are completely worn out from so much kindness and hospitality from all of our amazing friends here on the rock. We will be leaving tomorrow, me to the Mainland and her returning home. Whew! So much fun I can barely begin to describe it.

This morning we went to a temple session in Taipei - all in Mandarin. It's been a while, but it wasn't too far off from what we 'normally' do. Then Sister Huang met us and treated us to lunch with her 3 kids in tow. They are amazing and delightful. So wonderful to see them again. Sister Bao came with her husband and 2 little monkeys to pick us up after that and wisked us through the world's coolest and longest tunnel over to the east side of the island. Only an hour's drive from Taipei ~ a drive that used to take 3.5 hrs! Crazy....

Ilan, the town we visited was Erin's last area on her mission and she was kinda trippin' out being back there. We spent most of our time at the Taiwan Cultural Arts Center browsing little shops that displayed crafts and art trade from Taiwan. So! nicely done and a lot of fun. There was a sculpture museum there that was amazing ~ white people just can't do stuff like that.

After eating our way through all the shops there we headed into town to find a potsticker shop that has been in operation for 30 years and is famous all over Taiwan. Erin used to eat there often back in the day. It was the BEST Chinese food I think I've ever had. Sister Bao, thinking that we have the stomachs of 20 year American men kept ordering food and putting it in front of us. The Chinese won't take "I'm completely full and cannot eat another bite" for an answer when you don't want any more food. Normally, I really would have refused, but it was all so good! But there did come a point when I told Bao straight up, I truly can't eat anymore please stop ordering. She looked at me and just said the common Chinese phrase "Eat a little slower (and you can finish)." I started laughing, but it hurt my stomach so I couldn't laugh too much for fear of throwing up.

After eating there we went down the street and got some more Taiwan specific food - onion pancakes, and a great treat of chocolate ice milk (which was supposed to have coffee in it. when we requested to leave out the coffee there was a long discussion with the owner about how that was unusual and kinda weird, and that it just wouldn't taste the same ~ we assured the shop owner that we were already weird Americans so it didn't matter.)

As we were driving back we were talking about food (of course) and Bao mentioned that she loved living in Seattle several years ago. The best part was that when she went down to the pier the fisherman would give her bags of salmon fish heads free. She was thrilled to discover this as Bao loves fish head, especially the eyes and in Taiwan, she informed us, fish heads are really expensive. She uses them to make fish head soup. Before we drove back home (through the world's longest tunnel), Sister Bao had to stop and buy some chicken innards for her kids to snack on. (see photos photos of kids below from last 2 days). I love Bao ~ she is so wonderful, but I was reminded how truly Chinese she is. It was wonderful to be with her and her family for an evening.

What a great time we have had!!! Will write more later and post more photos, it's just kinda late right now. Would love to hear from anyone of you who is watching our adventures.

julie & erin (卓和達)

Alex and Mei - happy couple

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Sister Bao's 2 boys (and Erin)



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Sister Huang's Daughter and us


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Sister Huang and her kids!

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sarah k. tarbox and the 101


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leaving So. taiwan

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Thursday, August 28, 2008

Day 6


not a lot occurred today. erin and i made our way back from South Taiwan in a car and a fast train. by 2:00pm we were checked into our Taipei hotel. leaving our friends, Song Meifang and Lu Yanmei wasn't the highlight of the day.

both were sad to see us go as were we to leave them. it is both a blessing and a curse to have such amazing friends here in Taiwan. the blessings are obvious, but the curse is that we don't know when we will see them again ~

this evening we met up with my good friend from High School, Sarah K Tarbox. she has lived in taipei now for almost 20 years. she teaches English and generally enjoys it here. it was delightful as ever to be with her ~ an evening wasn't quite enough. but we ended up seeing the 101 - currently the world's tallest building. it cost $400 NT to ride to the top and i just didn't see the point in spending that on an elevator ride. so we enjoyed it from the outside and did some shopping in the area.

tomorrow we will attend a temple session in Chinese, have lunch with Sister Huang and her kids then spend the afternoon/PM in Ilan - on the east side of the island. this was Erin's last mission area. our friend Bao Meiyi is taking us over there with her family in tow. i've never been there so i am looking forward to seeing another part of Taiwan.

what an excellent choice it has been to stop by here on my way to China. i can't get enough of good friends, good food and generally Taiwan. it feels as though i have returned home.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

snorkeling in kenting


We had a great day in Kenting. It was our last day down south. We got up at a decent hour (the jet lag has finally passed), and eventually made our way down to the reef to snorkel. The production was kinda fun. We paid 300 nt (about $9.00) to put on a full body suit, some water shoes, a life vest and the snorkel goggles and snorkel. HOT!! We were told we had to wear the body suit to avoid being stung by the jelly fish. (Which we never saw ??)

Then were carted down to the beach to go out and snorkel. The reef had more fish and was more brillant than expected. Lots of pencil fish, pink striped fish, yellow fish, puffer fish, etc. After an hour of that we went out to eat with our friends and then went to the beach for a while. Our Chinese friends weren't interested in the beach as they thought it was too hot - which they were probably right. We had to pay 300 NT to sit under an umbrella and watch everyone (in-between floating in a bathtub temperature water.)



The first thing we noticed was some guy with the full face mask on (see right) - I guess it's the most effective sunscreen next to 170 spf. While sitting under our 300 NT umbrella we enjoyed watching our tatooed neighbors (see pic below) snort drugs and yell at their kids. Around this time a large group of African guys walked by and were yelled at (in Taiwanese) for not paying to sit under the umbrellas. Their host, James Bond Chi, an older Chinese gentleman, spoke with us in English and somehow managed to get Erin's scribbled and mostly illegible email out of her - AFTER she had told him she was married with three kids..... I was a little sad that James Bond Chi didn't request my email. But he gave his email to Erin so if anyone wants to contact him you can email at "jamesbond001@ ----.com." I suppose 001 is six steps above 007. After that we observed group after group of excited Chinese teenagers don water helmets and overload water wienies just to be dragged around the bay by the drunk drivers of wave-runners. Taiwan south beaches are so exciting!



We then made our way back to Sung Mei Fang's house for a shower, a rest and dinner of potstickers and fruit and chocolate bings. Tomorrow we return to Taipei - just as hot as there, but not as scenic and we won't be required to wear full body suits in the city.










look close for the swallows on the phone lines... they gather everynight and space themselves evenly. there are 1,000s all over town (Ping Dong) and only set up at night. it's best to wear a hat around the streets while out and about.

10 people to a tube


We couldn't figure out the helmet thing, then realized that they may need them in case heads bonked - which was likely since there was 10 on a 7-8 person tube.

taiwan tattoos


taiwan night market snack: squid on a stick


Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Day 4

Day 4 brings Julie and me back together (We split for a day) in KenTing. The most south tip of Taiwan. Yeah, made me want to look at a map too. I've been told that its like Hawaii - its close! KenTing is green, humid with a fun vacation feel to it. Today we ran around looking at beaches, a light house and spent a couple hours searching for unique shells on the beach as we watched the sun set.

scavanging at a coral beach

lighthouse on So tip of Taiwan

coral on the beach

Erin and Julie @ Kenting beach

Yanmei, Sis. Zhong, Julie, Sis. Mao - Kaohsiong

Sunset off of Southern tip of Taiwan